Method of lasting boots and shoes



Aug. 25, 1942. H. A. MILLER MEIHQD 0F LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES 3 SheetS Sheet 1 Original Filed Sgpt. 23, 1959 Aug. 25, 1942. H. A. MILLER METHOD OF LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES Original Filed Sept. 23. 1939 3 Sheets- Sheej. 2

Y u m w METHOD OF LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES Original Filed Sept. 23, 1959 3 Sheis-Sheet s 46 j E :i L111 A2 I Q ii; m 7 J d /0 J5 22 1;:

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Iqx/eqkm: WW q Patented Aug. 25, 1942 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ME'IHQD OF LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES Herbert A. Miller, Danvers, Mass, assignor to Herbert A. Miller Shoe Co., Danvers, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts 4 Claims.

My invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes, particularly stitch-down shoes, and it has particular reference to a method of lasting boot and shoes of that type.

The method commonly employed heretofore in manufacturing boots and shoes of the kind referredto, particularly in connection with the smaller sizes, has been to first apply cement to the top marginal portion of the sole and to the inner marginal portion of the skirt of the upper; then to fasten the sole to the bottom of a last by means of tacks or nails; then to place the upper on the last and while manually stretching the heel end of the upper downwardly on the last, and while holding it under tension, driving a nail or tack through the lower portion of the back of the upper into the heel end of the last to fasten the back of the upper in position against upward displacement on the last; then pulling the toe end and forepart downwardly by means of pincers and while holding the forepart against upward displacement on the last by means of one hand, utilizing the nose of the pincers, while the latter was held in the other hand, to force the upper into the inseam throughout the circuit of the shoe so as to press together the cemented marginal portions of the upper and sole. Thereafter th outwardly extending marginal portion or flange of the ul required a high degree of skill and care on the I part of the operator since the control and manipulation of the parts depended entirely upon the operator, second because of the time and care required to drive and remove the tacks and nails, and third, because the finished product was bady disfigured by a prominently displayed tack hole at the back of the upper and by a plurality of tack holes in the sole.

This invention has for its object to obviate the above noted objectionable features characterizing the method heretofore employed in the commercial production of shoes of the type described.

To this end I have provided certain improvements in the art of making stitch-down shoes as set forth in the following description, the several novel features of the invention being separately pointed out and defined inthe claims at the close thereof.

In the accompanying drawingsi Figure 1 is a front elevation of a shoe lastin machine for use in practicing my new method.

Figure 2 is a vertical sectional view of a portion of the machine illustrated in Fig. I showing the presser members hereinafter described in engagement with an upper fitted upon a last.

Figure 3 is a plan view of a shoe sole showing the manner in which cement is applied to the marginal portion of its top surface.

Figure 4 is a side elevation of the pedestal member, or work rest, hereinafter referred to.

Figure 5 is a top plan View of the pedestal member shown in Fig. 4.

Figure 6 is a section on line 65 of Fig; 1.

Figure 7 is a section on line !-I of Fig. 6.

Figure 8 is a section on line 8-8 of Fig. 6

Figure 9 is a section on line 9'!] of Fig. 6.

Figure 10' is a side elevation of a completed stitch-down shoe. I

The. lasting machine illustrated inthe accompanying drawings comprises a flat rectangular base I0 herein shown as more or less in the form of a plate made adjacent to its corners with apertures extending therethrough for the reception of screws, not shown, by means of which it m y be fastened in position upon a bench, or other supporting fixture, at a convenient height for the operator.

Near its rear side base It is also made with a circular aperture H, Fig. 8', which is occupied by th lower portion of a tubular post I 2" provided upon its exterior with a radial flange that is rigidly fastened by screws to base I 0.

The tubular post I2 is occupied by a vertical screw threaded shaft l3 provided at its upper end with a hand wheel I4. The upper end portion of post I2 is interiorly threaded and its threads mesh with those of shaft 1'3.

Above the post 12 the shaft [3 has fixed on it two spaced apart collars l'5' between which is confined the hub It, Figs. 1, 6 and 8, of a bracket ll, said hub' being rotatably mounted upon the shaft I3. The free end; portion of this bracket ll consists of a horizontal transverse tubular boss l8 within which is slidably mounted the shank portion of an angular arm [9; saidshank portion being keyed to the boss as at 21 so that it cannot rotate therein. A set screw 20 normally holds the shank of arm i9 against longitudinal displacement in boss Ill.

The front end portion of arm l9 is disposed vertically and at right angles to the shank portion from which it extends downwardly with its lower end normally disposed directly above a laterally extending radial arm 27, Figs. 6 and 8,

which is provided with a transverse horizontally disposed threaded aperture within which is mounted an adjustable stop member 28 herein shown as a screw provided with a lock nut 29 by which it is fixed in adjusted position. This stop member 28 co-operates with an arm 39 depending from boss I8 to limit swinging movement of arm I9 in a clockwise direction, Fig. 6, so as to definitely position the lower end of arm I9 relatively to work rest 22 when arm 39 abuts the end of stop member 28.

The lower end of arm I9 is made with a dowellike extremity 3|, Fig. 8, of reduced diameter,

that is adapted to occupy a socket 32 provided at the top of a last 33, and with an angular radial shoulder 34 at the upper end of the dowellike portion 3| adapted to abut the top of the last surrounding the socket 32.

The work rest 22, Figs. 4 and 5, is provided to support a shoe sole 35 and is made with shank and. forepart portions which are preferably of the same size and shape as that of the shank and forepart of a sole of a predetermined size and shape.

Adjacent to its toe end and at opposite sides thereof the work rest member 22 is provided with two upstanding sole-positioning lugs 36 between and against which the toe end of the sole is placed. Adjacent to its opposite end the work-rest member 22 is provided upon its top with two upstanding sole-positioning lugs 31 against and between which the heel end of the sole is placed.

The sole 35. is placed in position on the work rest while the arm I9 occupies a position above that shown in the drawings and before placing the last on the'sole the upper 38 of the shoe that is being made is slid upwardly on to arm I9 as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1, after which the last 33 is slipped on to the dowel-like extremity 3| of arm I9. The screw I3 is then operated to adjust arm I9 downwardly while the operator presses laterally thereon in a direction to maintain the arm 3|] against the stop member 28. By thus maintaining arm against stop member 28 as the last 33 is lowered and seated on the sole, said last is accurately positioned longitudinally with respect to the sole, while the positioning of the last angularly relatively to the sole on the axis of dowel extremity 3| is efiected by the operator. The screw I3 and arm I9 are adjusted downwardly in the manner just described until the last and sole are clamped tightly down on to the work rest.

The upper 38, Fig. 8, is then slid downwardly on arm I9 on to the last after which the lasting operations are completed as presently to be described.

As shown in Fig. 3 cement is applied to the marginal portion of the top side of the sole throughout its circuit as shown at 39. Also cement is similarly applied to the lower marginal portion of the inner side of the upper 38. cement is an adhesive composition of the kind commonly employed for fastening soles to the bottoms of boots and shoes and a. characteristic thereof is that two surfaces coated therewith are strongly united thereby when brought into contact.

Disposed opposite the toe end of the work rest pedestal 22 is a normally retracted presser member 40, Figs. 6 and 7, consisting of an elongate metal plate whereof the outer end is supported by a post 4| carried by a slide 42 mounted in ways 43 provided in a bracket 44 permanently and immovably fastened in position on top of base I0 by three screws 45.

The opposite end of presser member 40 is supported by a pair of plungers 46 each of which is, in turn, supported by a spring, one of the latter being shown at 41, Fig. '7. These spring pressed plungers 46 yieldingly support the end of presser member 40 that is opposite the toe end of the work rest 22 in an elevated position against a transversely disposed roller 48 that is rotatably supported by a transverse bar 49 mounted at its opposite ends in ears 50 projecting upwardly from bracket 44. In this way the shoe-engaging end of presser 49 is normally and yieldingly supported above the level of the top of sole 35.

The post 4| is made with a radial flange 5| on which the outer end of the presser 48 is seated, said end being made with an aperture 52 that is loosely occupied by post 4| so that the presser is free to rock laterally on flange 5|. The lower end portion of post 4| is threaded and occupies a tapped hole in slide 42 'so that it can be adjusted vertically to some extent relatively to its supporting slide 42.

The slide 42 is provided with an upstanding stud 53 occupying a longitudinal slot 54 provided in a horizontally disposed lever 55 that is fulcrumed at 56 on base I0. By means of this lever the slide 42 and presser 46 are manually moved toward and from the last 33.

Disposed opposite the heel end of the work rest pedestal 22 is a normally retracted presser member 51, Figs. 6 and 7, consisting of an elongate metal plate whose outer end is supported by a post 58 carried by a slide 59 mounted in ways 6|] provided in a bracket 6|. This bracket is made with a threaded stem 62 which projects downwardly through a slot 63 in base I0 and is provided with a hand-operated clamping nut 64, Fig. 1. Bracket 6| is adjustable toward and from work rest 22 and is .fixed inits adjusted position by means of nut 64.

The opposite inner end of presser member 51 is supported by a pair of plungers 65, each of which is in turn supported by a spring, one of the latter being shown at 66. These springpressed plungers 65 yieldingly support the inner end of presser member 51 in an elevated position against a transversely disposed roller 6'! that is rotatably supported by a transverse bar 68 mounted at its opposite ends in ears 69 projecting upwardly from bracket 6|. In this way the inner shoe-engaging end of presser 51 is normally and yieldingly supported above the level of the top of sole 35.

The post 58 is made with a radial flange Ill on which the outer end of the presser member 51 is seated, said end being made with an aperture lI, Fig. 6, that is loosely occupied by post 58 so that the presser is free to rock laterally on flange 10. The lower end portion of the post 58 is threaded and occupies a tapped hole in slide 59 so that it can be adjusted'vertically to some extent relatively to its supporting slide 59.

fulcrum'ed at 14 on-base I0. By means of this leverslide 59 and presser 51 are manually moved -on bracket 6| toward and-from the last 33.

Each presser member 40 and .51 has separably connected-with it the upper end of a link 15,

Figs. 1, 6 and-'7 and as shown in Fig. 8, the lower end of each link 15 is connected by a flexible chain 16 with a foot lever l1 pivotally supported at 'l8'by a bracket 19 secured to a floor or the like, it beingunderstood that there are two of these levers, one for each presser member.

As shown in Fig. 9 ofthe drawings the slides 42 and- 59 are made with oppositely disposed beveled sides and occupy dovetailed grooves or ways 60 formed in the top of brackets 44 and SI.

'The inner shoe-engaging end of the presser member' ill is made with a toe-shaped indentation 80 which is of the same size and shape as the toe portion of the shoe that is being built and the portion of the presser member bordering this indentation is beveled to provide more or less of 'a knife edge adapted to fit into the inseam of the-shoe as will presently be clear.

The inner shoe-engaging end of the presser member 51 is made with a heel-shaped indentation 8l which is ofthe same size and shape as the heel end of the shoe that is being made, as viewed in plan, and the marginal portion of the presser member which borders this indentationill is alsobeveled to provide more or less of a'knife edge vto fit into the inseam of the shoe that is being made.

After the sole 35 and last 33 have been clamped in position upon. the top of the work rest 22 the upper 38, Figs. 1 and 8, is slid downwardly on arm [9 and fitted on to the last 33. Then while the heel end of the upper is pulled downwardly manually thereby to hold it fitted snugly to the last the lever 13 is operated to move the presser member 51 endwise into position against the upper whereupon the operator depresses the lever 11 that is connected with said presser member and forces the inner end of the latter downwardly while exerting a light pressure against the lever 13. Thus, as the presser member is yieldingly urged against the upper and forced downwardly by means of the treadle the heel end portion of the upper is stretched snugly against the last and the cemented portions of the upper and sole are brought together, as shown in Fig. 2, and united. Thereafter the toe portion of the upper is manually drawn downwardly and while held stretched on the last the lever 55 is operated to move the presser member 40 endwise into position against the upper and while in that position the treadle 11, connected therewith, is forced downwardly by foot pressure thereby causing the presser member to stretch the forepart of the upper over the last, push it into the inseam between the last and the sole, as shown in Fig. 2, and press the cemented portions of the upper and sole together to unite the same.

By means of a suitable tool the oppositely disposed shank portions of the upper, between the inner ends of the presser members, is pressed into the inseam between the last and sole so as to bring the cemented shank portions of the upper against the cement on the shank portions of the sole.

The screw I3 is now operated to raise the arm l9 thus permitting the last 33 with the united upper and sole in position thereagainst, to be removed from the machine. After removal from the machine the bottom flange of the upper and the sole may be fastened together by a line of stitches 82, Fig. 10, as usual.

From the above description it will be clear that the combination of elements including work rest 22, base Ii] with its post 12, screw I3, bracket l1 and arm l9 constitute a jack mechanism by which the last and sole are rigidly clamped and held against relative displacement while the upper is being'lasted. This is a distinct advantage over the old method referred to above in the practice of which the sole was tacked to the last and these two parts were supported and controlled entirely by the hands of the operator. The new jack mechanism just referred to rigidly holds the last and sole in their properly assembly assembled relationship while the upper is lasted, thus not only dispensing with the use of tacks but also relieving the operator of considerable manual labor and care.

As shown in Fig. 7 the upperv end of. each link 75 is made with a head 83 which occupies a buttonhole slot M provided in its presser member, the relatively narrow end portion of said slot providing a seat for said head 83 and the relatively large end of said slot providing a passageway for said head. Thus by moving either link lengthwise in its slot 84 into the larger end of the latter it may be disconnected from its presser member and the latter may be removed from the machine.

Of course, lasts of different sizes are employed in the commercial productionof this type of shoe and, therefore, I provide work rest pedestals 22 of different sizes and in all of these work rests the sockets 25 are the same distance fromthe toe end of the work rest so that whatever size work rest is employed its toe end is always the same distance away from bracket 44. It follows, therefore, that the bracket 6! is made adjustable toward and from the work rest as described so that it may be properly positioned according to the size of the work rest employed. A stud 85, Fig. 7, projecting downwardly from bracket GI and occupying a slot 86, Fig. 6, formed in base It! serves to hold the bracket 6| against angular displacement on the axis of stem 62 when nut 64, Fig. 1, is loosened.

One of the spring pressed plungers 65 occupies this slot 83 while the other spring pressed plunger 65 occupies a relatively parallel slot 81 formed in base l0.

From the foregoing description it will be observed that when the upper 38 is slid downwardly into position on the last 33 it is devoid of an outwardly extending flange at its bottom and surrounds the outer sole 35. Therefore, when either presser member All or 5'! is first moved inwardly against the upper and then downwardly the presser member acts as a wiper to stretch the upper downwardly and force it inwardly into the bight between the last and the outer sole, and at the conclusion of this wiping and pressing action it has formed a flange on the upper and said flange is pressed firmly against the previously cemented top marginal portion of the outer sole to which it adheres. It will also be clear that each wiper is pivotally supported adjacent to its outer end by its slide 42 or 59.

The present invention has been divided from my co-pending application Serial Number 296,- 213, filed September 23, 1939, relating to improve ments in lasting machines.

with its lower marginal portion surrounding said sole, and then pressing the marginal portion of the upper first inwardly against the last and then downwardly against the top side of the sole while the last and sole are held clamped together and to said support thereby to form an outstanding flange that is cemented to the top of said sole.

2. The method of lasting a stitch-down boot or shoe without the use of lasting tacks which consists in first applying cement to the marginal portion of the top side of an outersole and to the lower marginal portion of the inner side of a complete unfianged upper; then clamping together a last and the sole with the last seated in 7 its proper position against the top side of the sole,

and at the same time clamping both the last and the sole to a support; thereafter fitting the complete upper onto the last with its lower cemented portion surrounding said sole, and then pressing the cemented lower marginal portion of the upper first inwardly against the last and then downwardly into position against the cemented marginal portion of the top side of the sole while the last and sole are held clamped together and to said support and while said upper is held in position on said last.

3. The method of lasting a stitch-down boot or shoe without the use of lasting tacks which consists in first applying cement to the marginal portion of the top side of an outersole and to the lower marginal portion of the inner side of a complete unfianged upper; then clamping together a last and the sole with thelast seated in its proper position against the top side of the sole, and at the same time clamping both the last and the sole to a support; thereafter fitting the complete upper onto the last with its lower cemented portion surrounding said sole, and then pressing the cemented lower marginal portion of the upper first inwardly against the last and into the inseam and then downwardly into position against the cemented marginal portion of the top side of the sole while the last and sole are held clamped together and to said support and while said upper is held in position on said last.

4. The method of lasting a stitch-down boot or shoe without the use of lasting tacks which consists in first applying cement to the marginal portion of the top side of an outersole and to the lower marginal portion of the inner side of a complete unitary unflanged upper; then clamping together a last and the sole with the last seated in its proper position against the top side of the sole, and at the same time clamping both the last and the sole to a support; thereafter fitting the complete upper onto the last with its lower cemented portion surrounding said sole, and then pressing the cemented lower marginal portion of the upper first inwardly against the last and then downwardly into position against the cemented marginal portion of the top side of the sole while the upper is held stretched over the last and while the last and sole are held clamped together and to said support.

HERBERT A. MILLER. 

